SOME COMMON QUESTIONS WE ARE ASKED
Q: What do you need for boarding?
- Do NOT bring: toys, stuffed animals, bowls, crate. We have all of these things. If you do bring toys, we cannot guarantee they might be damaged or destroyed from play.
- Bringing bedding is optional. If your dog is used to bedding in his crate, you may bring bedding. If your dog chews, eats, or shreds bedding, please let us know as this is a safety hazard.
- Treats are optional, we also have our own (we mainly use Happy Howie’s treat roll)
- Any medications
- If you do not bring food, your dog will be fed our house food.
- If your dog is running low on food, we will let you know to bring more, or we will mix in house food if necessary.
Q: What is a Board & Train, and what does it include?
A: Dynamic Dogs Board & Train Camp is where your dog or puppy boards and is professionally trained at our academy. It covers a foundation of obedience, manners, socialization, and problem solving. Your dog boards so that we (the trainer) can form a good working bond with your canine during our short time, and accomplish the most progress. It’s also known as doggie bootcamp. Great for the busy owner, behavior issues, or those who want the best possible results.
Q: What is the cost of Board & Train?
A: See PRICES
All-Inclusive Board and Train Camp:
- X days of boarding and training
- Obedience, such as: Sit, down, place, sit-stays, down-stays, loose leash walking, leave-it (food refusal), down stays out of sight, come when called, listen around distractions, outdoor work, long line training, and sometimes remote collar training, and off-leash training
- Behavior modification, if applicable
- Socialization, confidence building, play
- May include private lessons with you while your dog is in training
- On the day of go-home, a demo with the trainer
Q: Do you do off-leash training?
A: Absolutely. We train for your goals, and we expect you to communicate those goals to us. A dog that is reliable off leash can have a life with more freedom and exercise.
Q: What methods do you use in training?
A: We believe dog training is both an art and a science. One of the things that makes us unique and highly sought-out is that we do not take a cookie cutter approach. There are many ways to get to a goal. How we get there will be determined by first the dog itself, then the goals and the situation. We believe the best methods are both effective and humane, as well as practical and easy to follow. The foundation of dog training is positive reinforcement, simply put, dogs are shown what to do and rewarded for doing so, therefore the behavior is strengthened. We always consider how dogs learn and we respect them for who they are. The training is not dictated by the tools we use, but by how we use them.
To make an analogy on methods, let’s use the diet and fitness industry. If you bought 20 books on weight loss, they will all be different programs, even though they have the same end goal. Some might be authored by MD’s, nutritionists, or personal trainers. Let’s say your goal is to lose 20 pounds. You can do that many ways- eat healthy, fast, try a fad diet, go carb-free, grapefruit diet, take pills, follow a diet guru’s plan, exercise for hours a day… and some things will work out better for different people. But in general, the best program is going to be the balanced approach of a healthy diet, moderation, and exercise. Do you want a fad diet that is unbalanced and not sustainable, or do you want the benefits of a time-tested program with moderation?
Q: After professional training, will my dog revert back to misbehavior once we get home? Won’t my dog listen to the trainers, but not me?
A: You have to put the effort in, too. Frankly, if Board & Train didn’t work out well we wouldn’t be offering it. Trainers have been doing residence training for years with success, and you will see many companies offering it- there are big differences though, different trainers get varying levels of results. After a Board and Train, We do not just hand you the leash and say “good riddance”, we take time to transfer the training system over to you through instruction.
1. First, you observe a full demo with your dog and the trainer, and you will see several exercises showing everything your dog has learned, now you can clearly see your dog can listen and work for the trainer.
2. The training is transferred over to you. You could say now you are “trained”, as you learn how to handle your dog. Learn the commands, when to praise and reward, when to correct, etc.
Clients report fantastic results after the course, positive changes in behavior after their dog has gone away for training, and many report to us that their dog has been nearly perfect. But certain dogs, depending on their temperament and history with you, will try revert back to the way it was before, depending on their history with you and their temperament and genetics. However, this is why board and train is followed by a thorough lesson, so you learn how to handle your trained dog at home. But you now have a chance to start fresh, and we give you the tools to do so. We can give you the tools an offer support, but we can’t follow you home, therefore, The follow up for board and train is your responsibility… If you want the most progress, you will continue working with your dog.
Q: Can an owner ever “undo” their pets training?
A: Owners can cause their dogs training to become slack, either through not being consistent, not following instruction, or through rewarding the wrong behaviors. But they can never “undo” it; training can always be brushed up through a lesson. Dogs never “forget” the training they had, and can be back to where they were.
YOUR DOG IS NOT A ROBOT, they are living and feeling animals and behavior is influenced by many variables. You need to learn handling and maintain the training. This is why private lessons are included to ensure long-term success.
Q: Is my dog too old for training?
A: Your dog is never too old to learn! While it’s preferred that training be started at a young age, there is no such thing as “too old” for training- we have worked with dogs of all ages. Training techniques can be modified and sessions shortened if needed.
Best age for training? An ideal age for training can vary, but every dog should start with basic puppy manners (like walking on a loose leash), coming when called, retrieving toys, and socialization, then move on to more advanced training starting at about 5-10 months because the attention span has increased.
Q: Will my dog’s aggression be ‘fixed’?
A: We specialize in working with aggression, from mild aggressive behavior to dogs with bite histories. There is a scale of aggression for dogs, and this depends in part on their history of aggression (incidents, number and severity of bites) and their age (how long the behavior has been going on, and how well established it is), triggers, etc. There are different types of aggression, to name a few: territorial, fear-aggressive (quite common), dominant or possessive aggressive, animal aggressive, or redirected aggression. As dogs are living creatures and their behavior is influenced by many variables, including genetics, environment, and what you do, so future behavior can never be guaranteed or 100% predicted- no trainer can guarantee your dog will never show aggression ever again, because it depends on you and your behavior and commitment! If a trainer guarantees aggression to be fixed, run! That an unethical sales-pitch. It’s not like fixing a computer… So maybe “fixed” is not the appropriate word. However, we do have an excellent success rate of working with problem dogs and we specialize in aggression- changing and managing behaviors. We will handle your dog safely and work to modify behavior effectively.
A: Personal check, cash, Visa, Discover, Am Ex, and Mastercard debit and credit, PayPal
Q: Do you accept any barters for service?
A: Yes, we do consider barters. Some things we may barter for are various services and goods.
A: We have worked with all types of canines, rescue dogs, and all different breeds, including rare breeds. Regardless of breed, every dog is different and unique, so you can’t always generalize. We accept all breeds, including the Bully breeds and Pit Bulls.
We have trained literally thousands of dogs through board and train and classes. Most trainers do not specialize in breeds, they specialize in types of training.
The breed list is very long, as we’ve each trained hundreds of dogs: Doberman, Yorkie, Westie, Bulldog, Boxer, Pit Bull, German Shepherd, Beagle, Cocker Spaniel, Jack Russell Terrier, Pointer, Shiba Inu, Maltese, American Bulldog, Rat Terrier, Great Dane, American Bulldog, Greyhound, Weimaraner, Dogue De Bordeaux, Vizsla, Husky, Chow Chow, Mastiff, Neopolitan Mastiff, Cane Corso, Victorian Bulldog, Chihuahua, Boston Terrier, Dalmatian, Belgian Malinois, Akita, Irish Setter, APBT, Australian Shepherd, Labrador, Bernese Mountain Dog, Portuguese Water Dog, Border Collie, Dutch Shepherd, Shar Pei, Cavalier King Charles, Corgie, Shih Tzu, Cattle Dog, Poodle, Rottweiler, White Shepherd, Pug, Golden Retriever, and Puggle, Labradoodle, Goldendoodle, and many other Mixed Breeds…
Some Less common breeds we’ve trained: Dandie Dinmont Terrier, Dogo Argentino, Caucasian Ovcharka, Havanese, Basenji, Irish Wolfhound, American Dingo, Anatolian Shepherd, Potcake, Catahoula Leopard Hound…
A: We believe every dog can learn! Any dog can make positive improvements. Consistency, patience, and proper techniques can go a long way with any dog. Your dog may have had a long time of practicing bad habits, but all dogs can still make progress, as long as you make the necessary changes to set him up for success.
When someone asks about dogs that are beyond training, they are usually thinking of dangerous or “red zone” dogs. These dogs are not common. Many dogs have made bad choices or were managed poorly, but are not dangerous dogs. The following applies to severely aggressive dogs: Genetics are one variable we have no control over, and there is the rare dog that has instability that is beyond rehabilitation. We have worked with many problematic dogs, including older aggressive dogs, several court-case bite dogs, and numerous dogs turned away by other trainers and behaviorists. The harsh reality is not every dog should be trained. There are also people who own a dog they are not equipped to handle. If an aggressive dog is posing a danger to the general public or to a child in the household, or has had a significant or severe bite history, we may evaluate the dogs stability and the living situation. Despite training, some dogs are not a good fit for the lifestyle of the owners or are dangerous dogs who pose too much liability to children in the home and may be unstable. This is often a combination of both genetics and upbringing. We have a high success rate and many dogs who have been considered “red zone” have been through our program and had a great outcome in the long-term.
A: Schutzhund (German for “protection dog”) is a competitive dog sport. It has trials with a 3-part competition- Obedience, Tracking, and Protection. There are several other dog sports that include protection, such as PSA, French Ring Sport, and Mondio Ring.
It tests dogs of several breeds for the traits necessary for police-type work. The obedience might be similar to AKC obedience in a soccer sized field, with such things as off-lead heeling, about turns, down out of motion with recall, long down-stays with distractions, retrieving a dumbbell on the flat and also over a wall, send aways, and distractions including gun fire. In tracking the dog locates articles in terrain and signals to the handler. In protection, dogs search for the helper who is hiding behind a blind, and do a bark and hold, and attack with an out. Overall, the dog should exhibit courage, intelligence, agility, and trainability. The dog loves doing it, is well trained and exercised, and it creates a bond between dog and handler. If a dog scores well and passes, he can progress to the next level. There are 3 titles, I, II, and the ultimate, Schutzhund III.
Schutzhund, although it has a component of protection training, is not the same as street protection, or real life protection, which requires additional and different training. Prior to competing in any protection sport, dogs must pass a suitability temperament exam to show they are under control and obedient, not vicious.
WHAT IS FRENCH RING SPORT?
French Ring Sport is a dog sport involving jumping, obedience, and bite work. It is most similar to Belgian Ring, Campagne and KNPV, but also sharing common elements with Schutzhund and Mondio Ring.
To participate in French Ring Sport, a dog must first pass the Certificat de Sociabilité et d’Aptitude à l’Utilisation (Certificate of Sociability and Aptitude for Work, aka CSAU) temperament test. French Ring Sport defines three earned levels, after earning a Brevet (Certificate) for Dogs of defense; Ring I, Ring II and Ring III. Each introduces progressively more difficult situations and makes greater demands from the dog. The trial is divided into three sections: Jumps, obedience (breaking in exercises), and protection. Obedience is emphasized in all three sections
When competing in Ring, the dog has no collar or leash on at any time except during the heel on leash. No food rewards or physical corrections are allowed at any time while competing. Also, excessive praise or petting will result in a loss of general outlook points. Points for an exercise will be lost for multiple commands, incorrect commands, or failure of the dog or handler to perform the exercise correctly. Control is emphasized from the moment the dog/handler team walks onto the field, until they leave at the end.
Ring Sport consists of a number of exercises. A dog that has been trained for Ring III level of competition will be able to do the following.
- Heel on a leash: in a pattern determined by the judge with multiple stops and starts, left and right turns
- Heel with muzzle: heeling off leash while the dog wears a muzzle in a pattern determined by the judge with multiple stops and starts, left and right turns
- Long sit/down: done with the handler out of sight, the dog stays in a pre-drawn position 1 min.
- Food refusal: dog is thrown 4 pieces of food (usually meat or cheese) while on a down stay with the handler out of sight. Dog must not eat the food, and if it is “accidentally” thrown into dogs mouth, he must immediately spit it out. The field is also baited with 6 pieces of food, in strategic locations (i.e. by blinds, jumps, area dog runs over during send away, etc.)
- High Jump: dog jumps a hurdle on command, then does a return jump on command and comes to a heel position by the handler, minimum hurdle height 0.9m for 8 pts (1m = 39.37in)
- Palisade: dog jumps and climbs over a wooden wall, minimum height 1.7m, then does a return jump and returns to handler
- Long Jump: dog jumps a pvc/metal “key” long jump on the ground, minimum length 3m
- Positions: the dog is told to sit, stand and down in a pre-drawn order. the handler is 18m away. points are lost for creeping forward during the positions, or failure to perform a position
- Thrown Retrieves: the handler throws the item at least 5m, on command the dog retrieves the item and presents it to the handler. the retrieve object can be any object such as a glove, wallet, rolled up sock, glasses case, etc.
- Unseen Retrieve: handler and dog are heeling, handler drops the object on the opposite side from the dog, a similar object is placed next to the retrieve object, at a signal dog and handler turn around, and dog is sent to retrieve the object. points lost for mouthing object, 0 points if dog retrieves wrong object
- Seen Retrieve: the handler drops the object on the same side as the dog and the dog immediately picks it up, runs completely in front of the handler who then stops walking, then dog returns the object to the handler
- Send Away: the dog is told to run in a straight line away from the handler until called, then it returns to the handler
- Face Attack: the dog is told to attack a decoy who is facing him about 40m away behaving in a menacing fashion, with out/recall
- Fleeing Attack: the dog is told to attack a decoy who is running away, with out/recall after the bite/fight
- Defense of Handler: handler, dog and decoy approach each other and have a short conversation, then continue walking. the decoy turns around and comes up behind the handler, and as soon as the decoy “attacks” (obvious “hit” on handler) the handler, the dog bites the decoy. After the dog is told to out, he guards the decoy until recalled. the dog must stay with the handler until the attack, most dogs are taught to heel facing backwards for this exercise
- Attack with Gun: the dog attacks a decoy who is firing a gun, twice during the attack, and once after the bite. After the bite/fight, the decoy freezes, the dog lets go and guards the decoy. The decoy tries to escape twice, the dog bites each time, then the handler disarms the decoy and heels the dog away.
- Search, Hold, and Bark with Escort: The dog finds the decoy who is hidden in one of six blinds, and barks to indicate the decoy has been found. The decoy attempts to escape, while firing a gun, and the dog stops the decoy by biting. The decoy attempts another escape and fires the gun, dog stops decoy by biting. Handler outs dog, then disarms the decoy and retreats at least 3m. The dog escorts the decoy to a designated spot, preventing two more escape attempts by biting. The dog has no set pattern to run the blinds in as long as he finds the decoy in the allotted time.
- Stopped Attack: This is done exactly like the face attack, with the decoy acting menacing and the dog being told to attack. When the dog is 1 to 4m away, the handler calls the dog who returns to the handler without biting the decoy. Points are based on the distance from the decoy when the dog is recalled, with 0 points if the dog bites. the handler must behave in every way exactly the same up until the recall command for the call off and face attack (EX sneeze during one, you better for the other)
- Guard of Object: the dog is told to guard an object, and the handler goes to a place out of sight. The handler does not participate in any way again, until it is time to retrieve his dog. The decoy tries three times to steal the object, and the dog stops the decoy each time by biting. as soon as the dog bites, the decoy must freeze for 5 seconds, however if the dog lets go then rebites, the decoy can begin to move. As soon as the decoy begins to move away from the object, the dog lets go to remain close to the object he is guarding. Points are lost for biting too soon, allowing the decoy to move or completely steal the object, being dragged away from the object, etc.
WHAT IS PSA? (from www.PSAK9.com)
The Mission of the Protection Sports Association (PSA) is to provide an outlet for civilian competition in canine obedience and controlled protection, and to recognize achievement with titles and prizes, and promote competition with club trials and championship tournaments. PSA will endeavor to set a new standard for
training excellence in the protection sports, and PSA shall encourage cross-over from other protection sports, to provide a competitive venue that will test the best against the best, and encourage excellence, sportsmanship, and integrity throughout the dog training community.